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Author Topic: Jensen rebuild  (Read 5016 times)Share

stuarta

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Jensen rebuild
« on: March 21, 2011, 08:14:02 PM »

'Evening all.

If anyone's interested in my Jensen rebuild, I've started writing it up on the owner's club forums - rather than duplicate here, I'll provide a link.

http://www.joc.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=69167&sid=6f64210e61718c6ed979fc85ce92492c#69167
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biggles

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2011, 10:22:34 PM »

Requires a log-in to see Stuart, why don't you just paste whatever you put up on the Jensen Forum here, 'tis what I do with the Svetlana Diaries
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2011, 07:10:35 AM »

If anyone's interested in my Jensen rebuild,
Course we are ! been awaiting an update  :woo:


Requires a log-in to see Stuart, why don't you just paste whatever you put up on the Jensen Forum here, 'tis what I do with the Svetlana Diaries
DITTO  :(
If you paste the HTML all the images will be copied as well.

Cheers,
Richard B.
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biggles

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2011, 08:10:53 AM »

Needs to be BB code, as opposed to HTML, but that is what the Jensen forum uses anyway
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2011, 10:44:50 AM »

Sorry - working last night. Here it is - in several installments to avoid posting limits.

This is intended to be an ongoing diary of the rebuild of my Mk II Interceptor 125/5420. Whilst I do not intend to use this thread to look for advice / help, anyone that wishes to contribute is clearly very welcome to do so. I plan to add photos as I go.

First – me. I am a 40-something Brit that has lived overseas since 1996. First Abu Dhabi , then Dubai, Switzerland, France and finally back to Dubai. Although I have no previous experience with this kind of project, I have long harboured a desire to either build myself a car (from a kit) or rebuild something older. Whilst I have always been somewhat successful with household repairs / projects, my previous mechanical experience is very limited, being nothing more adventurous than brake discs / pads, rocker cover gaskets, stereo installations (my own) and the odd bit of tinkering, so this was always going to be a huge learning project. In fact that is the idea – in my profession (air traffic control) the retirement age is fairly early (58 – at the moment) so not only do I need something to do when the wife is at work / kids at school that keeps me from sitting in front of the tv/computer all day but I would like to do something productive with my time and, possibly, learn some skills that even if they don’t earn me anything in retirement, will help to keep the brain from atrophying due to lack of use!

With this in mind, I started seriously looking into the idea of rebuilding a classic a year or so ago – initially thinking of something like an e-type. Copious numbers of magazine articles / websites soon indicated that this was probably a) too expensive for a “hobby” car and b) a bit too much to bite off right at the beginning. Then I came across the BBC’s “wheeler dealers” show and started watching it and others to see what I could learn. Bingo – series 8, episode 1 showed a mkIII Interceptor, which I seem to largely have missed in my youth, growing up on the poor east coast of Scotland. I had certainly heard of them but never really looked at them as a prospective car. Thus began my search for an Interceptor to rebuild.

After various possibles and nearly-rans (including budgerian’s ex-wallace mk III) I finally came across 125/5420 (a 1971 mk II) for sale in California through a reseller, at what looked like a very good price. After much research into their company and having arranged a professional inspection, I finally bit the bullet and opted to buy this seemingly solid but tatty mkII, with no service history but seemingly in need of a good dose of TLC and a much improved respray.

Thus started a long saga of emails and phone calls to arrange purchase and payment through a third party company / find out why a “professional” seller was selling a car for which the owner had lost the registration documents and not bothered to replace them and chase up numerous collection / shipping / delivery delays – all from 7000 miles and 9(new York – the agent) or 11 (LA – the car) time zones away.

Not renowned for my patience, I immersed myself into trying to find out as much as I could about the car, rebuilding in general and Jensens in particular (that’s how I found these forums and the wonderful Monday club). The most I could find out was that the guy selling the car was a “wealthy gent in his sixties” called Robert John Russell, who “bought and sold cars on a whim” but had owned this one since 1975. The dealer claimed to have sold 6 of his cars in the recent past – due to an impending / recent divorce and a bit of digging showed that the car had been for sale for at least a year, starting off at double what I had paid for it (thank goodness) . Much googling later, the best guess that I can come up with is that “Robert John Russell” may be the adopted son of the late Jane Russell (actress), as he certainly was of the correct age and lived in the right location. The story given was that he “hoarded” cars but was less than scrupulous about looking after their paperwork – hence the lack of documents. I did try contacting Robey’s (not much help at all) then Appleyards and Rejen, both of whom provided the original specs etc. But no one had any details of the original owner (Andy Brookes hasn’t given up, though). Frankly, apart from the lack of “provenance”, I wasn’t too worried, as I planned to completely rebuild the car anyway but if anyone has any information regarding the car or 1970s/80s agents in the LA area who might have records, I would be most grateful.
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2011, 10:45:47 AM »

The car.
125/5420 is an Interceptor II, originally specified as Royal Blue with a blue leather interior, sundym glass , voxon 8 track radio/player , air conditioning , town & country horns (air horns) , chromed wheels. She left the factory on 25/6/71 and was exported to the USA. From what I can tell, this specification has not changed in the intervening 40 years, except for a rather poor US respray that appears to have been done in an attempt to cover up previous accident damage (more later). Mileage shown was 5632 miles, though it’s anyone’s guess whether this is really5,632 105,632  205,632 or even more.

After the 4 month long delivery saga, she finally arrived and at last, I was able to look on those curves with my own eyes. From what I could tell, the bodywork was mostly very good with very little sign of rust and few visible “dings” although the shippers did manage to scratch the heck out of the roof. Having checked the fluids, etc. the engine fired up at the first turn of the key but was extremely “lumpy” with lots of spits and coughs – a quick look underneath showed that one of the exhaust pipes seems to have been used as a ja**ing point and thus was more or less completely crushed – NOT conducive to good running. One of the first things that I did, then, was to have a replacement exhaust system made locally, to get an idea of how the engine ran when breathing properly (and to hear that wonderful noise) before  work commenced. The result was immediate – lovely smooth running and a lovely burble – I think I’m most definitely hooked!
At this stage, I had to take a decision as to whether to attempt a “quick fix” – enough to get her registered here and allow me a drive or two or whether to just commence the stripdown and rebuild straight away. After much agonising, I decided to do it properly and start the stripdown in earnest but before I could, a whole day was spent running around Dubai with the car on a recovery truck, trying to get my hands on the absolutely essential piece of paper that gave me permission to respray her a different colour. Had I not done that, registration would have proved impossible until she was returned to the same colour as on the import papers! Job done – work could start.
The rebuild.
With the paperwork completed, I could finally start getting stuck into the project to see where I really stood. Quick to come off was the brightwork and exterior trim. The front bumper, having been recently replated, was looking good but inspection revealed the internal welds that betrayed some recent (and none too well done) repairs. Next to go were the headlights, bonnet, radiator, condenser and aircon pipes (system empty). All looked in reasonable condition and 30 mins with some chrome cleaner on the headlight surrounds showed what was possible with a bit of work. At this stage, I also had a go at the chromed rostyle wheels to see their condition and although they are not too bad (except form light rust under the black paint) I will have them rechromed before fitting new tyres.

At this stage, I went back into the engine bay to continue removing ancillaries and gain access to the beast itself. A/c, alternator, oil filter connections and so on went without much of a hitch, as did the complete removal of the wiring loom and fusebox . I did, though, remove the fusebox with all wires attached, for future reference – although the wiring will be replaced, it’s good to see how it goes together. At this point, I realised just how little space there is in an Interceptor’s engine bay – even with a lot of bits removed, it’s still more or less impossible to access some of the fasteners!
To improve access to various bolts, I then removed the power steering pump and part of the column, a/c compressor and pulley, as much of the piping and hoses as possible (some of THEM are just as inaccessible) – including the heater hoses that appear to have been replaced with garden hose! The carb, power steering pump and engine mounts then followed, meaning that the beast would soon be free. Time to go and buy that engine hoist and stand. That again is a long story but suffice to say that after several visits to the local hardware store, I finally had it all bolted together.
At this stage, I would like to pass on my sincere apologies to the now starving family of squirrels whose stash of acorns (4 inches deep) was found hiding behind the brake master cylinder!
Now for the beast itself. Having given up on the rearmost rocker cover nut, I elected to remove it intact but still had to remove an exhaust manifold to gain access to some of the bellhousing bolts. Ah, the bellhousing bolts. Lovely job that. Can someone please advise (for future reference) whether it is actually possible to remove them (the middle ones) without going in through the transmission tunnel (from the inside)? After finally removing those, the starter motor and the flexplate cover (gees, my vocabulary is growing exponentially), off come the flexplate bolts and the beast is free!
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2011, 10:46:25 AM »

Here’s my first conundrum. Having managed to remove the beast (with 2 kids standing on the back of the hoist to counterbalance the weight) and mount it on the stand, I didn’t waste any time stripping it down. I already have a complete new top end, courtesy of 440source and their alu heads / water pump/ intake manifold, etc. But was keen to see the state of the interior. I have to guess that one of the head gaskets has been replaced, as one of them was totally clear, while the water passages in the other were completely blocked. Gasket off though, the galleries themselves don’t look too bad. They’ll still get a good scrubbing out with a stiff brush, though. Now for the conundrum. I set about measuring the inside of the cylinders to see a) whether the bore size is standard and b) how much wear is evident. I did this with an outside micrometer and a set of manual bore gauges. The problem is that not only does this seem to indicate that some of the cylinders are slightly narrower at bottom than at the top but also that ALL of the measurements are slightly smaller than the standard boresize! I am measuring each cylinder as having a bore of around 4.248 inches at the top (with no perceptible ridge) against a factory size of 4.250 inches! I am fully prepared (and inclined) to believe that my technique is fundamentally flawed but fail to see how!

Next, I decided to remove the interior trim, in an effort to avoid damage and improve access (all is relative in an interceptor – as I have already discovered!). This was a fairly uneventful job, save for the wing nuts holding on the rear seat being rusted solid. The leather, though dry was generally in not too bad condition. My plan is to use a leatherique kit to rejuvenate it and change the colour to something with a bit more contrast to the dark blue paintwork (to be) – current thinking is magnolia. To this end, I (inadvertently) ordered 2 complete 32oz rejuvenating kits (hidden message?) and have started cleaning and softening the panels in preparation for the colour change.

With the interior out, I then set to removing the enormous number of carpets / small leather panels / soundproofing gubbins that had all been glued in place for 40 years. It soon became apparent that the foam type soundproofing would more or less disintegrate on trying to remove it, while the jute (?) based stuff would simply rip into shreds and permeate the cabin with 40 yrs of absorbed dust and mould spores! After a bit of trial and error, I discovered that a liberal dosing with white spirit not only helped to break down the glue but to keep down the dust. I then set about doing the same with the boot which led to my next big discovery!
Having taken out the soundproofing and carpets, I was finally in a position to see the state of the boot floor – not good. Not rust but a clear indication that the car has at some time had a good wallop in the rear end that has been repaired by replacing the outer panels but simply hiding the interior damage under carpets and copious coats of underseal. It basically looks like a steel panel with its own tidal system of ripples! Seems like my purchase of a MIG welder might be justified after all!

One piece of damage which HAD been discovered by the inspection was a series of dents in the floor - leading to a rippled / split section behind the passenger seat. This appears to have been caused by running over a boulder or similar, which finally jammed up against the floor and split it. I have had a fairly successful go at hammering it out but will weld in a patch anyway.


This prompted me to start going over the rest of the internal bodywork with a more critical (and better trained) eye. Lo and behold, the same was apparent at the front end – the outer panels replaced but the interior ones (inner wings, I think the parts book calls them) around the radiator/bumper mounts are a mess of bent panels with holes that appear to have been worked on by a first week panel beating apprentice. More welding in prospect.

Further inspection revealed something similar with the driver’s door. The inside had a nice straight row of aluminium rivets which have now started their real job of rusting the inside of the doorskin. Further inspection of the outside reveals that the paint conceals copious amounts of filler (magnet method) although I haven’t got around to stripping the paint off yet to see what lurks underneath. At least though, I did manage to get out all the glass / locking mechanism / winder mechanism from both doors, without breaking anything (I think).

Next came my first major meeting with the rust monster. As I said, the car appears to have lived most of its life in California, so rust is not a major problem. With this in mind, I had a look at the only externally visible hole – around 2” diameter in the front of the driver’s side sill. Removing  paint from around the hole revealed a number of pinholes further back so I decided to cut out a panel 8” or so long with the intention of replacing it. Imagine my surprise when I removed the panel (having finally tried out my new cheapo Chinese plasma cutter) to find that the inner sill behind it has not only gone to meet its maker but left very little behind. Clearly, water has been entering through the hole and running along the inner sill – the “rust line” gradually descends towards the bottom until it peters out about 2 feet back from the front. The inner face of the inner sill is almost completely intact, as is the top but I now have a 2 foot long hole in the outer face that needs to be replaced! That MIG welder is starting to look like a very good idea now! I have since removed a couple of sections further back and on the other side to check them out and found no problems but it seems my California car wasn’t so rust free after all. So far not nearly as bad as some others I’ve seen though.

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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2011, 11:19:00 AM »

 :clap_1:  :clap_1:  :clap_1:  :clap_1:  :clap_1:

Nice work, seems like you have really been flying along on the strip down.

Shame about the rust on the sills but Im sure nothing a mig and some replacement pannels can't fix.

The V on the hoist looks lovely, glad she ran sweet.

Keep up the work (and the posting)  :fing34:

Cheers,
Richard B.
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2011, 11:52:44 AM »

Thanks - engine is almost completely stripped now - spent several hours yesterday with an electric drill and wire brush cleaning up the block and removing old paint. Unfortunately,I overdid it and my back is paying the price today - next time I'll try the air grinder!

If I manage to finish it and repaint it this week, there'll be more pics at the weekend. I may even get some of the bling bits attached.
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2011, 11:59:37 AM »

Even more progress, very good.

Did you / do you have a parts washer (big / small).
If yes, where did you get it please ?
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biggles

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2011, 03:23:12 PM »

brilliant, just what we need, more quality content and resto's
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2011, 03:40:57 PM »

Don't have a parts washer (yet!) but have seen them in Golden Tools. Not sure about the solvent but they did say they know a place.
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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2011, 03:52:18 PM »

Even more progress, very good.

Did you / do you have a parts washer (big / small).
If yes, where did you get it please ?

Kitchen sink, dish washer or washing machine, just don't tell the missus Richard... :lol:
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2011, 04:12:54 PM »



Don't have a parts washer (yet!) but have seen them in Golden Tools. Not sure about the solvent but they did say they know a place.

YET  :laff:
It's on my list as well, think will need one soon and for sure before my next "Dirty" job.

There are a couple of home brew options for fuild / solvent that I've used :
 :gay: SAFE = STRONG solution of dishwasher powder, washing up liquid and HOT water.
 :angryfire: FLAMABLE = Mineral Spirits / Kerosene (and you can by these by the litre at ACE).

If you need a home made washer as well you can use a bucket filled with the fluid of choice and then add low pressure air in the bottom and leave to bubble gently for a few hours.

Not helping my 'Blue Peter" reputation with these comments am I  :bugerit:

Kitchen sink, dish washer or washing machine, just don't tell the missus Richard... :lol:

Works quite well, been there, done that, not told the wife.
Have to be carefull with steel though as the hot dry cycle can cause flash rusting.

Cheers,
Richard B.

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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2011, 07:42:23 PM »

Quote
There are a couple of home brew options for fuild / solvent that I've used :
 :gay: SAFE = STRONG solution of dishwasher powder, washing up liquid and HOT water.
 :angryfire: FLAMABLE = Mineral Spirits / Kerosene (and you can by these by the litre at ACE).

I'd heard somewhere about the wonderfully varied uses for dishwasher powder - definitely worth a try. Already have a good supply of denatured alcohol, etc. to try too. On the way right now is a package from www.bilthamber.com with some deox c, deox gel and surfex HD - will report (with pictures, if any good) on them when done. I would have liked their rustproofing stuff too but like Por 15, it's classified as dangerous goods, so next to impossible to import.

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