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Author Topic: Jensen rebuild  (Read 5016 times)Share

stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #30 on: April 25, 2011, 07:38:37 AM »

Thanks Biggles - will try again today - they've already been resized, it's either my pathetically slow connection or photobucket that's the problem (failed uploads).
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #31 on: April 25, 2011, 07:49:00 AM »

:clap_1:  :clap_1:  :clap_1:   Well done and keep up the good work.

I'd better test the heater to see if it works
Wear your wellie boots I suspect you'll get wet feet.
I have a specail iron oxide plug fitted in the hot water supply line to the heater box, stops all the leaks  :laff:




liberal use of seam sealer to hide / cover screws which were then covered with adhesive soundproofing foam 
That's the Luxurious  silent ride you pay for :broke:




main drainage box and pipes
Ahh guess you've got a "Prince Albert" valve as well (it looks like the name suggests). On the MG's these often fail closed causing heater box to stay wet and this helps the rust party.
Sorry can be a pain to find new ones as well.




next to impossible, restricted access jobbies
:lol: serves you right for having such a big engine !
Get your self a set of flex head ratchet spanners and a 3/8 socket set.
   http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/02/ispanner-20-aka-gearwrench-flex.html




ready to have a go at fitting and welding tomorrow.....inshallah!
Let the fun and the fire commence. :angryfire: 
Remember even if you chase the hole to the edge of the plate it still counts as a weld.
(The old fart in me says remeber to get a fire extingusher and keep it handy.)




Cheers,
Richard B.
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Amateur Spanner Monkey. . . . . . . turning hammers and hitting spanners for fun.

stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #32 on: April 25, 2011, 12:45:58 PM »

Richard, you've jinxed me! I thought this welding business was supposed to be easy - all I've done so far is create some nice little bobbles of hot metal in between the machine's feed stuttering (brand new miller passport plus)  :bugerit: Time to read the instructions again!
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #33 on: April 25, 2011, 01:05:37 PM »

SORRY !

WWW / YouTube may also be your best friend.
Think Miller even has a guide on thier site.

It's all about the current and the feed, got to balance them.
- Current determines penetration (to much and blow holes, to little and cold weld sat on top).
- Wire feed needs to match the current, not enough and the wire will fuse in the tip, to much and wire will not melt and you'll get fits and starts. (Poor earth / dirty metal can also effectively mean not enough current for the feed and also fit and splutter).

Best tip I ever heard was when running a good bead it should sound like "bacon being fried".
Of course easier said than done but you'll get a feel for it in the end.
Few pieces of clean scrap and sit and play with lots of simple flat welds.

But not sure I should even comment I last welded in 94 (wow that's scary !)
Worked from 14 to 21 in a welding and structural steel fab shop in my village.
WAY illegal child labour but I loved it, taught me more than school and university put together !


p.s. Where did you get the welder, consumables and gas ?

Good luck,

Cheers,
Richard B.
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #34 on: April 25, 2011, 04:04:42 PM »

Ok panic over - and thanks for the tips. After much checking of websites (miller included), reading of manuals and experimentation, I discovered that the main problem was that I tended to hold the gun too CLOSE to the metal - moved it away another 1/4 inch and managed to run a good few nice practice beads, so tried a small project - replace a  small section of rusty floor that I found while preparing the sill.

Here's what it looked like after my first attempt and subsequent treatment with a flap-disc.....


So I had another go - here's it is after the second one...


After a bit more work, it appeared not too bad. Some of the welds were a bit porous and had to be redone - a bit more practice needed, I think. Going by the rust patches I'm finding, I don't think there'll be any problem with that!
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2011, 07:30:11 AM »

Well done, the welding is getting there.   :fing34:

What is the penetrationon the back side like ?
For perfect penetration you should just be starting to see a bit of deformation, almost melt throug)  from the weld pool.
A good tip when you practice is to weld two bits together and the put in the vice and apply repeated percussive testing with a BFH and see how easily they break.

You say porus welds.
Are they like pumice stone, with lots of very small holes, this is what is termed a porus weld.
As opposed to lumpy welds, partly missing the target object, like a pile of peas or seagul sh1t.
If it is proper porus make sure you have enough gas flow and there is no wind blowing the gas away, also what gas are you using, always used to use an argon/co2 mix as the the co2 would make the gas a little bit denser.

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Cheers,
Richard B.
http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/
Amateur Spanner Monkey. . . . . . . turning hammers and hitting spanners for fun.

rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #36 on: April 26, 2011, 07:39:10 AM »

Well done for getting the rest of the photos up.

WOW, your really flying along, she looks good.
Front cross member and the engine mounts look in good condition.

What is all the black "gunk" on both sides of the firewall ?
Was there that much dirt, grease and other sh1t there, can’t believe she was that dirty or is that the sound insulation, definitely overkill.

Is that the fuel filter on the bottom by the bell housing.
If it is I have just replaced an identical one in MG but by mistake I got two new ones so I've got a nice glass and chrome one if you want a freebie.

Cheers,
Richard B.
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biggles

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #37 on: April 26, 2011, 07:40:21 AM »

Richard, I get my Argon Mix at Emirates gas, on the Google Map.  85AED for a medium (about 4 foot high) bottle
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 07:45:34 AM by biggles »
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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #38 on: April 26, 2011, 07:58:52 AM »

Thanks Biggles. :naughty:

Must say to myself  "NO I DO NOT NEED A WELDER, I DO NOT NEED A WELDER, I DO NOT NEED A WELDER !"
Bad enough that I went to Golden tools last night and got followed home by another tool box.  :woo:
It's not my fault all my new Imperail stuff meant i HAD to get another box.

Cheers,
Richard B.
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Richard B.
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Amateur Spanner Monkey. . . . . . . turning hammers and hitting spanners for fun.

biggles

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #39 on: April 26, 2011, 08:00:47 AM »

You can borrow my welder any time you like, as I have just got stuck into (literally) Gareth's Escort round at a2b and mine will be sitting in the garage doing nout for a while
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #40 on: April 26, 2011, 02:20:44 PM »

Hmm a separate toolbox for the imperial tools, I like that. Mine came from GT s well - may have to go back.

To answer a few points..

Quote
What is all the black "gunk" on both sides of the firewall ?
Was there that much dirt, grease and other sh1t there, can’t believe she was that dirty or is that the sound insulation, definitely overkill.

Yep - the remains of the soundproofing....the bloody stuff was everywhere - even around the heater box, which fits it's slot like a glove!

Quote
Is that the fuel filter on the bottom by the bell housing.
Yep, that's the fuel line and filter - one of the few hoses that I don't have a replacement for yet - can't remember but I think I have a filter already in a box somewhere - thanks though.

Quote
What is the penetrationon the back side like ?
Poor at first - later attempts were better and did show from underneath. Am going to practice a lot more before doing anything that shows.
As for the porosity - I did get a lot of "seagull sh1t" at first, it was the later welds that had bubbles in them. I'm using 100% CO2 for shielding - the welder I'm using is supposed to be better with that than an Argon mix. As for supplies, It all came from a shop on airport road, abeam the petrol station at the cargo village - "industrial welding supplies", I think. They also sell zdx cutting / flap discs and loads of varied consumables / tools too. Ask for Ahmed. Feel free to borrow my welder / plasma cutter too.

Unfortunately, back to work today, so not much will be done until after the weekend.

Cheers,

Stuart.



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rbailey

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #41 on: April 26, 2011, 02:49:30 PM »

Yep - the remains of the soundproofing....the bloody stuff was everywhere - even around the heater box, which fits it's slot like a glove!

Have you tried to dissolve it with acetone or MEK, some of the simpler foams dissolve well.
As this is heat / sound insulation it may not discolve, but a quick test pour from of the wife's nail polish remover to check will not hurt.
.
.
.
.
.
unless she catches you  :smack:   :bolt:

Cheers,
Richard B.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 03:14:44 PM by rbailey »
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Amateur Spanner Monkey. . . . . . . turning hammers and hitting spanners for fun.

stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #42 on: April 26, 2011, 02:52:13 PM »

Haven't tried that yet - comes off nicely with an air grinder and wire brush, though.

Just hope that mine doesn't end up like this...

http://www.joc.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10659

hope it's readable without a login this time.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 03:37:04 PM by stuarta »
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nifty

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #43 on: April 26, 2011, 09:04:56 PM »

Hi Stuart just looking at your weld pictures. You wont get a decent mig weld unless you have perfectly clean, just ground base metal. Any dodgy rusty bits will not produce any sort of quality weld. Also are you pulling the welding tip like a stick welder, if so try pushing the other way. ( for right handers , right to left).. That way you will have the gas shield neutralising the oxides ahead of the weld puddle. Spend a few hours practicing with bits of new tin under ideal conditions before attempting your body parts. Good panel repairs arent just cocky sh*t welds and grinding and bogging. It entails beating with dollies and hammers and filing with a body file and lead wiping. Sounds very old school but its very rewarding when you do it right and it will last for years. Filler shrinks out in a couple of years and your expensive paint job finally reveals the rub marks in the bog. Good luck. I did my MG Midget back in 1984 and it still looks good. Mind you it hasnt been out of the garage for 20 years.
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stuarta

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Re: Jensen rebuild
« Reply #44 on: April 26, 2011, 10:25:34 PM »

Hey Nifty, thanks for the input - all comments welcome as I'm a complete newbie!

This particular weld was not what I would have hoped to start with as it was an overlap joint comprising 3 different panels - I did make a point of trying to clean up the "contact patches" but something tells me I could have tried harder! Frankly, most of the other areas are much more accessible, so I'll be certain to make sure they're properly cleaned up before starting - I did try running a few beads on freshly sanded steel as opposed to millscaled, so have some ides of the  difference it can make. Much practice needed, though.

As for

Quote
Good panel repairs arent just cocky sh*t welds and grinding and bogging. It entails beating with dollies and hammers and filing with a body file and lead wiping. Sounds very old school but its very rewarding when you do it right and it will last for years

Sorry if it appears cocky but, having never tried before, I have only the interweb and / or books at my disposal to learn from. It may mean that I waste time / effort in an attempt to reach an acceptable standard but to me, that's the best way to learn. (btw what IS bogging - sounds illegal out here! :laff:) Chances are that the aforementioned will be redone when (if!) my skills have improved.  :flag:

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