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[dwr]

Hi,

One question and one opinion!

1/
Did you get yr wiring 'bits' locally?? if so, where please? (especially e.g. battery type cable & similar..). I'm well aware of suitable places outside UAE but not here...

2/
It's just an opinion, ignore at yr leisure, but I myself, even though I'm well aware of how crimp technology works, (or should work!) would still solder all the crimps in a race vehicle. The ones subject to stress (e.g. engine bay or a few others like headlights) I would likely individually heatshrink right at the junction. I've built plenty of looms for 24h racers "back in the day " and this is based on that. Don't depend on the cable stress relief on any crimp to be worth jack sh*t either, it can even be worse than nothing in aftermarket automotive stuff...

kr  D.

[biggles]

The battery cable was sourced from a generous donation by Spencer, most of the electrical switches from Gareth at a2b nad all the other small bits from the UK.

Definitely be heat-shrinking everything, but not every thing will be soldered.  The ECU manufacturer recommends against it for MOST connection.  Normal loom stuff like headlights, I will crimp and solder

[biggles]

OK, small update, it seems to be taking me for ever to get every job done

First off after much measuring I got the biggest air filter I could fit, to support the horsepower target I am after (280ish)
Bit tight, but with a bit of judicious bending of the mesh frame, it fits pretty good, only problem is the only way I will be able to remove the air filter is to also remove the throttle bodies, still happy with that as a compromise.


Bought a 75mm flaring tool on eBay, does a great job, so 7 nice holes later


Fitted my wings properly and did some work on the panel gaps, needed a fair bit of filler on the right hand side to get it all to fit properly (Smith & Deakin) Particularly at the top of the door


Left hand side before, does not need as much work


Cleaned up the doors, cut the insides out of them, as will be running fixed poly windows, kept the door opener.  No real restoring required, just an hour or two of cleaning up the surface rust.


Other door after cleaning and rust proofing


Then with alloy panel to cover up


Spent a bit of time today trying to work out were to fit the oil cooler, ended up this was the only place that I could make work.


Only occludes the radiator a little


Finally had a look at what hoses I need to pick up from Think Auto on Monday morning, when up in Heathrow for the day

[bigmac]

Biggles. What do you reakon this project is going to cost you and what will you run it in. Is there a race series for this.

[biggles]

All in I reckon it is in the region of 20K sterling in costs, a lot of that is the engine and ECU.
Would like to race it against the Civic Type R's etc

[biggles]

Checked out how to fit the poly windows, as the car is primarily planned to be used on the track, I never see it using wind up windows again.  So using the standard window channel on the top, I slid the poly window into place.  I had thought about using some kind of cunning channel, but decided instead to bolt the windows through the inside of the door to the other side of the window channel.  Will get a few pretty domed Allen bolts to tidy it up.





Picked up some nice window strengthener fillets from eBay for the roll cage


Bit of seam sealing, in anticipation of paint


Bracket for the


Rally Design front chin spoiler, unfortunately it was not meant to fit bubbles, so a bit of chopping and GRP filler


Blended in OK now


Made up some checker plates for the floor, thanks for the sheet Gareth!


Bare metalled the doors


and after several days of bare metalling, seam sealing, filling and cleaning the shell, finaaly got her to hi-build primer


Funny how the flash shows up the little bits you missed


Have to say the roll over jig is bloody handy for painting, hardest bit is getting all the tubes painted


Morris showing me how to do the doors properly, think the kitchen stool will need a bit of TLC in the form of a Ford colour


Not a bad effort at that


So tomorrow it is stone-chip for the underneath, then maybe a lick of top coat on the stone-chip to seal it off

[649Racing]

I'm sure you've said in the previous 18 pages but what engine are you putting in it? Duratec I pressume???

[biggles]

Duratec indeed, no other choice really for me

[649Racing]

Wilcox BDA in a perfect world.

There was a 1600 BDA on ebay last week for about 4500 pounds, cheap i thought.

[biggles]

yeah but for half the cash you of a BDA you can do a 280bhp Duratec, with a lot more reliability, blocks avaialable from any 2.0 Mondeo or Focus and a lot better production engineering.  A well known BDA tuner that looked at the Duratec head commented that its like an improved modernised BDA head.

[Northern Ferret]

My my Mr. Biggles, you have been a busy boy haven't you 

Looking good mate...

Just got back from the UK so let me know when your around and I will pop round to inspect your work...

[649Racing]

yeah but for half the cash you of a BDA you can do a 280bhp Duratec, with a lot more reliability, blocks avaialable from any 2.0 Mondeo or Focus and a lot better production engineering.  A well known BDA tuner that looked at the Duratec head commented that its like an improved modernised BDA head.

100% agree, hence the perfect world bit, just nostalgic to have that motor.

A Wilcox 300hp BDA unit is 30,000 pounds plus VAT  , Duratec is about a quarter of that from Vulcan engines.

[biggles]

here for the next two days Furry One, will be in the shed both days up until about 4pm

Duratec is about a quarter of that from Vulcan engines

And about a Eighth of that if you DIY

[biggles]

Did a bit of body work the next day blending the rear bubbles, anohter coat of primer.  Then got the Sonechip done OK, left it out in the sun for a couple of hours and it was piping hot, so no problems with viscosity.
Finally a lick over of topcoat underneath the seal the stonechip and make the dirt fall off easier.



Decided to stonechip the bottom of the front panel, as like most of these, it is not particularly smooth and I was bu**ered if I was going to try and smooth it all out with filler.
Think it looks OK and it is certainly practical.


So that's it for about a month, off on hollies soon